Automotive tools that save time and money actually end up paying for themselves in the long run. Getting the car tools needed at a fair price with quick and reasonable shipping is always something to look for when shopping on-line. A few tools that every car owner should have are listed below. Just click the links to find out more about the selected tools and while you’re there, browse over 15,000 products for sale at DenLorstools.com.

Hand Tools, hand tools include screwdrivers, ratchets, sockets, wrenches etc. Everyone should have basic tools in the box, ready to accomplish basic tasks that save a ton of money as opposed to paying at the repair shop.

OBD II Code Readers are good to have, because check engine lights can come on at any time.  CEL’s  (Check Engine Lights) can mean many different things, that’s why every car owner should have at least an inexpensive code reader on hand to help determine the problem. Once the trouble code has been pulled, information can be searched online to find the fix.

Brake Tools to do basic brake jobs can save money too. Disc brakes are much simpler to service than old drum brakes are. The exception are some disc brakes that incorporate the parking brake. These type brake calipers have pistons that have to be pushed and turned at the same time. So a brake piston wind back tool may be needed. Once the pistons are pushed in, there will be room for new brakes pads to be installed.

Specialty Tools that are sometimes difficult to find locally, are much easier to find online. Local stores tend to stock fast moving items. Items that there is not enough demand for, typically don’t find a space on a local store shelf.

Ok that’s just the tip of the iceberg. But for the professional or the DIY, quality automotive tools, a large selection and great pricing is something that everyone can agree on. Now that’s certainly “Tools that make sense”.

With cars today using more aluminum than ever before, damaged threads are just inevitable. No matter if the damaged threads are in the cylinder head for spark plugs, in the engine block for the head bolts, in the oil pan for the drain plug… Time-Sert is likely to have a thread repair solution. Saving money is what Time-Sert does. Delivering quickly and reliably is what DenLors Tools does. DenLorsTools.com, which is owned by a Master Automotive Technician knows the importance of getting the correct thread repair kit in a timely manner. DenLors is a stocking distributor that covers the USA effectively by shipping out of Florida and Nevada. Most Thread repair kits are delivered in 1-3 days with free shipping on many items. Below you’ll see some of the top sellers regarding Time Sert products. For current pricing, click the item and visit DenLors.

Time-Sert Products

J-42385-500  Northstar Headbolt Thread Repair Kit – used on many Cadillac and Olds Aurora engines 1999 and older.

J-42385-2000 Northstar Headbolt Thread Repair Kit – used primarily on Cadillac engines 2000-03.

2200 Toyota Camry/Rave 4 Head Bolt Thread Repair Kit – 11×1.5 Universal kit that works on many vehicles including Toyota’s.

5553 Ford Triton Spark Plug Thread Repair Kit – Was originally designed for repairing Ford Escort damaged spark plug threads.

3221 Ford 3 Valve Spark Plug Thread Repair Kit – Produced to repair damaged spark plug threads for 2004-08 3V Fords.

4412E and 4412 Spark Plug Thread Repair Kits 14×1.25 Taper or Washer Seat – Kit is used with a variety of inserts/applications.

1415C Aluminum Oil Drain Pan Thread Repair Kit – Allows use of original factory drain plug while increasing strength & durability.

11155 Inserts for Many Head Bolt Thread Repair Kits – Most popular inserts because the PN is used in many headbolt kits.

That’s the short list. Over sized kits and inserts are available for many different applications including Metric and Standard. Save money and time. Search more products and get help finding the correct Time-Sert Kits at DenLorsTools.com.

A: Absolutely, it is. It is portable and is basically used the same way on every vehicle. Find a place to hook up the hose and you’re off and running.

Q: Why is it recommended to use Nitrogen instead of shop air? I’ve seen smoke machines that are cheaper that don’t use Nitrogen, so why use Nitrogen?

A: Using Nitrogen with a smoke machine when testing an Evaporative system is the only way to follow automaker test requirements for all makes and models. Most major car manufacturers require or recommend using Nitrogen. Under the heading of Hazard Prevention, SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) Technical Paper 2007-01-1235 states, “Inside the confines of the fuel system,  flammable mixtures can be prevented by using nitrogen as the carrier gas for the leak detection fluid instead of air.” Shop Owners who are genuinely concerned about employee, customer vehicle, and shop safety use Nitrogen. It’s inert, non-flammable, and prevents a contaminated air supply from inadvertently reaching a customer’s vehicle.

Now with that being said, many repair shops don’t use Nitrogen – they simply use shop air from an air compressor.

Also I would be cautious when considering a cheap unit – besides the OTC 6521 LeakTamer is priced lower than I’ve ever seen it before right now!

Learn more about using a smoke machine.

I’m guest blogging here today, usually you’ll find me at my regular auto repair blog. If you like what you see here please visit my blog and auto tool store.

Summary: Changing C.V. (Constant Velocity) axles today is almost as common as doing brake jobs. But some CV axles can be pretty stubborn to remove. In this article learn some of the tricks I’ve used over the years as a Master Tech to make changing CVs and 1/2 shafts easier. Automotive specialty tools are sometimes needed to make the job easier, I’ll discuss some of those and if it is better to replace the entire half shaft, the joint or just the CV boot.

Clicking On Turns

Since you’re reading this you may already know that a common sign of a bad CV joint is popping and clicking on turns. A shudder on straight take offs could be a worn inner joint, but this is much less common. Outer joints have the most movement (like on turns), that’s why outer boots usually wear more than the inner ones. CV boots are designed to pump grease throughout the joint during movement. Wear that causes outer joints to make noise can be accelerated if the CV boot breaks from dry rot or wear and the lubricating grease is lost. If the CV boot breaks, grease is thrown out of the joint by centrifugal force while driving. Without grease to keep the joint lubricated and cooler, its life is drastically reduced. Also outside elements like moisture and dirt can enter the joint,  further reducing its life expectancy. Once they wear, they make a clicking noise upon turns while accelerating. If they are noisy, the 1/2 shaft assembly may be the easiest way to go instead of replacing just the joint. CV 1/2 shaft prices have came down in the last decade and are more readily available than they used to be.

Removing the Half Shaft Assembly

The job of removing half shafts on most cars is mostly the same. 

1. Remove the big nut that holds the joint to the wheel hub.
2. It may be necessary to unbolt or un-clip the brake hose to prevent stretching it when removing the axle.
3. The steering knuckle (where the brake rotor mounts), must either be loosened at the strut mount or at the lower ball joint to allow the shaft to slip out of the hub. Choose the easiest!
4. The inner CV will either be held into the transmission by bolts or with a retaining clip (the clip is not visible).
5. If there are no bolts on the inner joint, in most cases it will need to be pried out with a pry bar.
6. Alternatively a slide hammer with a C.V. joint puller can be used to remove the inner joint from the transmission.  

Inspecting and Replacing Boots

You may be able to detect and replace worn boots before damage is done to the C.V. joint. If the boot has dry rot and is about to crack or has just recently split . And the CV joint doesn’t make any noises yet, it has been caught it in time. The CV half shaft assembly can be removed and just the boot can be replaced with new grease of course. The CV boot kit also comes with two clamps and special grease. It is less expensive to re-boot a joint, but it is a little more labor intensive. On cars that I was familiar with, many times I changed the CV boot without taking the shaft completely out of the car. Usually though, the shaft is removed and placed in a vise to be worked on. The old boot is cut away to help reveal what type of retaining clip is holding the joint onto the 1/2 shaft.

When a cleaner is used, like brake clean and the joint is angled it’s easier to see the clip. The joint may need to be turned while kept on an angle to see the clip. Most either require lock ring pliers to spread the lock ring or the joint can be struck sharply with a hammer (care must be taken not to damage the cage). If you have doubt on what type of retainer you are working with, consult a service manual for your specific model. Be aware that the ball bearings can fall out when the joint is off the shaft and the cage is turned sideways depending on the type it is. After cleaning and drying with compressed air, the grease bag can be cut on the corner and the grease is squeezed into the center of the joint. It’s common to force out some of the old grease that was trapped while doing this. Scoop up and discard the old grease that may ooze out. Put the boot and joint back on the shaft by spreading the clip or tapping lightly with a brass hammer. Special CV joint boot clamp tools will be needed to tighten the bands properly. There are two basic types of clamps. There is a type that will be crimped with boot clamp pliers. The other type requires a banding tool, this type is wound and cranked tight using the same motion as you would with a can opener.

A common mistake is damaging the output seal in the transmission when removing or re-installing the axle. If the seal is damaged, transmission fluid will leak. Be careful to center the inner joint when putting it back in. Also a mistake that is made even by professionals is to either break the cir-clip that holds the axle in the transmission or to not install the axle completely IN. It is normal to feel a little movement in and out when pushing and pulling the inner joint when it is properly installed. If the retaining clip is broken or not fully inserted, the shaft can slip out enough that the car will not move! Also if tapping the shaft back into the transmission, be careful not to damage the outer threads. Remember if this is your first axle job, don’t hesitate to have a buddy with experience on call!

car smoke dollar 2

The OTC6521 smoke machine for EVAP testing is the best tool I’ve seen for checking trouble codes like P0440, P0442, P0455, P0456 and P0457 that can be caused by evaporative system leaks. Diagnosing an evaporative code is no fun without this tool. Leaks are the leading cause of EVAP codes, many times it’s just a loose gas cap. But if it’s not the fuel cap the OTC 6521 will provide a quick easy way to find the leak.

Other Uses

Vacuum leaks can also be traced easily with the OTC 6521 smoke machine. Engine codes for lean conditions like P0172 and P0174 are usually because of a vacuum leak. If the vacuum leak isn’t an obvious one, then a quick smoke test with the OTC6521 smoke machine will make finding it much easier. I remove a random vacuum line and block off the air intake hose, fill with smoke and see where it comes out.

The OTC 6521

Car Won't Start Auto Repair Tips

When your car cranks over but doesn’t start, the last thing you want is to be sent on some wild goose chase. You need some real advise you can use from someone that has experience, not just a wanna be auto mechanic telling you some random things to check. Below is an excerpt from an auto repair article that has good solid diagnosis advise for the most common causes of a no start condition, when a vehicle turns or cranks over but doesn’t start.

 A car that cranks over but doesn’t start, in many cases will be due to a bad fuel pump, a broken timing belt, an inoperative cam sensor or crank sensor. The first step in diagnosing a no start is to scan for codes with a code reader or scan tool. Approximately 40% of the cars towed in that I worked on in the last 25 years, either had a bad fuel pump or the fuel gage read incorrectly and the car was just out of fuel. Yes, some people actually have their cars towed in when all they need is some gas! If the fuel gage indicates that there is fuel in the tank, most people will assume naturally that the car does have fuel.

Read the entire 817 word article.

This cracks me up every time I see it. It’s amazing to me that so many guys are doing this “tape explosives to the sledgehammer & smack it on a metal plate thing!” If you have any idea what the heck they’re doing or have a funny response, feel free to comment.

Ford Focus windshield wipers won’t park

Recently I had a Ford Focus in our repair shop for wipers not parking. When turned off, they would stay right where they were, the wipers worked fine otherwise. One of my favorite tools lately has been the TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) check on Mitchell. This can really save a lot of time if the bulletin applies to the problem I’m working on. In fact, some of the fixes are so spot on that it takes all the work out of diagnosis and makes me look like a genius. This particular problem on the Focus was really worth the time to check for TSBs.

   A quick search on Mitchell and this TSB came up

What no wiring diagrams needed? No testing with my trusty Power Probe? Alright… sometimes you just have to get lucky! It’s not always like this but when you get information that saves this much time like in this case; it’s worth it to have this as part of the regular routine. Many times nothing will come up in a search, but it’s definitely worth it to run a quick search. 

The wiper relay is to the left of the steering wheel – top one in the image.

The relay started to work when I pushed on it. You could also switch the relay out with one of the others for a quick test. Just don’t forget which one you traded, so you can be sure to replace it or you may have an intermittent problem with another system!  

Honda and Acura Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Removal Tool

When trying to loosen a Honda crankshaft pulley bolt, the last thing you want to do is wait a week to get it. That’s why I looked around for the best source for a Honda crank pulley tool removal tool. It’s not often you can find a tool company that not just sells the tool, but also provides a ton of information too! How about a YouTube video showing how it’s done?

That’s just what you get at this one automotive tool website that I like to call the Honda crank pulley tool removal authority. There are also a lot of tips and how to information related to removal of the Honda and Acura crank pulley bolt. The Honda crank pulley removal tool from this one particular site is shipped out the same day in many cases and that cannot be said for many other tool companies. The info alone is worth a visit!