Automotive tool Weblog

EVAP Smoke Machine Questions – OTC 6521 LeakTamer

Dennis Bandy — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:04:21 +0000

Below are a couple of recent questions about the OTC LeakTamer Smoke machine.
Q: We are getting a lot of Evaporative codes in our shop lately. Is the OTC 6521 LeakTamer easy to use?

A: Absolutely, it is. It is portable and is basically used the same way on every vehicle. Find a place to hook up the hose and you’re off and running.

Q: Why is it recommended to use Nitrogen instead of shop air? I’ve seen smoke machines that are cheaper that don’t use Nitrogen, so why use Nitrogen?

A: Using Nitrogen with a smoke machine when testing an Evaporative system is the only way to follow automaker test requirements for all makes and models. Most major car manufacturers require or recommend using Nitrogen. Under the heading of Hazard Prevention, SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) Technical Paper 2007-01-1235 states, “Inside the confines of the fuel system, flammable mixtures can be prevented by using nitrogen as the carrier gas for the leak detection fluid instead of air.” Shop Owners who are genuinely concerned about employee, customer vehicle, and shop safety use Nitrogen. It’s inert, non-flammable, and prevents a contaminated air supply from inadvertently reaching a customer’s vehicle.

Now with that being said, many repair shops don’t use Nitrogen – they simply use shop air from an air compressor.

Also I would be cautious when considering a cheap unit – besides the OTC 6521 LeakTamer is priced lower than I’ve ever seen it before right now!

Learn more about using a smoke machine.

Jump-N-Carry 660, 4000, AIR Battery Boosters

Dennis Bandy — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 12:43:35 +0000

Great source for more information on the Jump and Carry booster pack line-up. Also great prices with quick delivery. Jump-n-Carry line of professional jump boxes, are a favorite for good reason of repair shops, and boat mechanics everywhere. Pound for pound some of the most powerful jumpstarters available anywhere. Store them sideways, upside down – it doesn’t matter. They won’t leak due to their design. Choose the battery booster pack the pros use. The best selling models are the JNC 660, JNC 4000 and the JNC AIR - heavier truck jump boxes are available too. Learn more about why many mechanics choose to own a Jump and Carry battery booster. Or if you’re already convinced the Jump-N-Carry is for you, see the product listings for great pricing and most ship for free!

Front Wheel Drive 1/2 Shafts – CV Axle Replacement

automotivetools — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 10:49:06 +0000

I’m guest blogging here today, usually you’ll find me at my regular auto repair blog. If you like what you see here please visit my blog and auto tool store.

Summary: Changing C.V. (Constant Velocity) axles today is almost as common as doing brake jobs. But some CV axles can be pretty stubborn to remove. In this article learn some of the tricks I’ve used over the years as a Master Tech to make changing CVs and 1/2 shafts easier. Automotive specialty tools are sometimes needed to make the job easier, I’ll discuss some of those and if it is better to replace the entire half shaft, the joint or just the CV boot.

Clicking On Turns

Since you’re reading this you may already know that a common sign of a bad CV joint is popping and clicking on turns. A shudder on straight take offs could be a worn inner joint, but this is much less common. Outer joints have the most movement (like on turns), that’s why outer boots usually wear more than the inner ones. CV boots are designed to pump grease throughout the joint during movement. Wear that causes outer joints to make noise can be accelerated if the CV boot breaks from dry rot or wear and the lubricating grease is lost. If the CV boot breaks, grease is thrown out of the joint by centrifugal force while driving. Without grease to keep the joint lubricated and cooler, its life is drastically reduced. Also outside elements like moisture and dirt can enter the joint, further reducing its life expectancy. Once they wear, they make a clicking noise upon turns while accelerating. If they are noisy, the 1/2 shaft assembly may be the easiest way to go instead of replacing just the joint. CV 1/2 shaft prices have came down in the last decade and are more readily available than they used to be.

Removing the Half Shaft Assembly

The job of removing half shafts on most cars is mostly the same.

Remove the big nut that holds the joint to the wheel hub.
It may be necessary to unbolt or un-clip the brake hose to prevent stretching it when removing the axle.
The steering knuckle (where the brake rotor mounts), must either be loosened at the strut mount or at the lower ball joint to allow the shaft to slip out of the hub. Choose the easiest!
The inner CV will either be held into the transmission by bolts or with a retaining clip (the clip is not visible).
If there are no bolts on the inner joint, in most cases it will need to be pried out with a pry bar.
Alternatively a slide hammer with a C.V. joint puller can be used to remove the inner joint from the transmission.

Inspecting and Replacing Boots

You may be able to detect and replace worn boots before damage is done to the C.V. joint. If the boot has dry rot and is about to crack or has just recently split . And the CV joint doesn’t make any noises yet, it has been caught it in time. The CV half shaft assembly can be removed and just the boot can be replaced with new grease of course. The CV boot kit also comes with two clamps and special grease. It is less expensive to re-boot a joint, but it is a little more labor intensive. On cars that I was familiar with, many times I changed the CV boot without taking the shaft completely out of the car. Usually though, the shaft is removed and placed in a vise to be worked on. The old boot is cut away to help reveal what type of retaining clip is holding the joint onto the 1/2 shaft.

When a cleaner is used, like brake clean and the joint is angled it’s easier to see the clip. The joint may need to be turned while kept on an angle to see the clip. Most either require lock ring pliers to spread the lock ring or the joint can be struck sharply with a hammer (care must be taken not to damage the cage). If you have doubt on what type of retainer you are working with, consult a service manual for your specific model. Be aware that the ball bearings can fall out when the joint is off the shaft and the cage is turned sideways depending on the type it is. After cleaning and drying with compressed air, the grease bag can be cut on the corner and the grease is squeezed into the center of the joint. It’s common to force out some of the old grease that was trapped while doing this. Scoop up and discard the old grease that may ooze out. Put the boot and joint back on the shaft by spreading the clip or tapping lightly with a brass hammer. Special CV joint boot clamp tools will be needed to tighten the bands properly. There are two basic types of clamps. There is a type that will be crimped with boot clamp pliers. The other type requires a banding tool, this type is wound and cranked tight using the same motion as you would with a can opener.

A common mistake is damaging the output seal in the transmission when removing or re-installing the axle. If the seal is damaged, transmission fluid will leak. Be careful to center the inner joint when putting it back in. Also a mistake that is made even by professionals is to either break the cir-clip that holds the axle in the transmission or to not install the axle completely IN. It is normal to feel a little movement in and out when pushing and pulling the inner joint when it is properly installed. If the retaining clip is broken or not fully inserted, the shaft can slip out enough that the car will not move! Also if tapping the shaft back into the transmission, be careful not to damage the outer threads. Remember if this is your first axle job, don’t hesitate to have a buddy with experience on call!

OTC6521 Smoke Machine – Smoking Recommended

automotivetools — Sat, 07 Feb 2009 14:41:47 +0000

: car smoke dollar 2

The OTC6521 smoke machine for EVAP testing is the best tool I’ve seen for checking trouble codes like P0440, P0442, P0455, P0456 and P0457 that can be caused by evaporative system leaks. Diagnosing an evaporative code is no fun without this tool. Leaks are the leading cause of EVAP codes, many times it’s just a loose gas cap. But if it’s not the fuel cap the OTC 6521 will provide a quick easy way to find the leak.

Other Uses

Vacuum leaks can also be traced easily with the OTC 6521 smoke machine. Engine codes for lean conditions like P0172 and P0174 are usually because of a vacuum leak. If the vacuum leak isn’t an obvious one, then a quick smoke test with the OTC6521 smoke machine will make finding it much easier. I remove a random vacuum line and block off the air intake hose, fill with smoke and see where it comes out.

The OTC 6521

Car Turns Over But Wont Start? Most Common Causes

automotivetools — Sat, 31 Jan 2009 12:54:05 +0000

Car Won't Start Auto Repair Tips

When your car cranks over but doesn’t start, the last thing you want is to be sent on some wild goose chase. You need some real advise you can use from someone that has experience, not just a wanna be auto mechanic telling you some random things to check. Below is an excerpt from an auto repair article that has good solid diagnosis advise for the most common causes of a no start condition, when a vehicle turns or cranks over but doesn’t start.

A car that cranks over but doesn’t start, in many cases will be due to a bad fuel pump, a broken timing belt, an inoperative cam sensor or crank sensor. The first step in diagnosing a no start is to scan for codes with a code reader or scan tool. Approximately 40% of the cars towed in that I worked on in the last 25 years, either had a bad fuel pump or the fuel gage read incorrectly and the car was just out of fuel. Yes, some people actually have their cars towed in when all they need is some gas! If the fuel gage indicates that there is fuel in the tank, most people will assume naturally that the car does have fuel.

Read the entire 817 word article.

It’s Hammer Time with Explosives – Tool Blog

automotivetools — Fri, 02 Jan 2009 01:20:43 +0000

This cracks me up every time I see it. It’s amazing to me that so many guys are doing this “tape explosives to the sledgehammer & smack it on a metal plate thing!” If you have any idea what the heck they’re doing or have a funny response, feel free to comment.

Ford Focus Wipers Won’t Go Down TSB – Just Park!

automotivetools — Fri, 02 Jan 2009 01:05:06 +0000

Ford Focus windshield wipers won’t park

Recently I had a Ford Focus in our repair shop for wipers not parking. When turned off, they would stay right where they were, the wipers worked fine otherwise. One of my favorite tools lately has been the TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) check on Mitchell. This can really save a lot of time if the bulletin applies to the problem I’m working on. In fact, some of the fixes are so spot on that it takes all the work out of diagnosis and makes me look like a genius. This particular problem on the Focus was really worth the time to check for TSBs.

A quick search on Mitchell and this TSB came up

What no wiring diagrams needed? No testing with my trusty Power Probe? Alright… sometimes you just have to get lucky! It’s not always like this but when you get information that saves this much time like in this case; it’s worth it to have this as part of the regular routine. Many times nothing will come up in a search, but it’s definitely worth it to run a quick search.

The wiper relay is to the left of the steering wheel – top one in the image.

The relay started to work when I pushed on it. You could also switch the relay out with one of the others for a quick test. Just don’t forget which one you traded, so you can be sure to replace it or you may have an intermittent problem with another system!

Honda Crank Pulley Removal Tool Shipped Fast!

automotivetools — Sun, 28 Dec 2008 14:32:39 +0000

: Honda and Acura Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Removal Tool

When trying to loosen a Honda crankshaft pulley bolt, the last thing you want to do is wait a week to get it. That’s why I looked around for the best source for a Honda crank pulley tool removal tool. It’s not often you can find a tool company that not just sells the tool, but also provides a ton of information too! How about a YouTube video showing how it’s done?

That’s just what you get at this one automotive tool website that I like to call the Honda crank pulley tool removal authority. There are also a lot of tips and how to information related to removal of the Honda and Acura crank pulley bolt. The Honda crank pulley removal tool from this one particular site is shipped out the same day in many cases and that cannot be said for many other tool companies. The info alone is worth a visit!

Top Seven Birthday or Xmas Gifts for Automotive Technicians

automotivetools — Sat, 29 Nov 2008 15:37:36 +0000

As with any gift, it’s best to know if the person you are buying for, has a need for the item you are considering. If it’s a mechanic you are buying for it’s a safe assumption, he’d love to receive car tools. Not just cheap run of the mill tools like from Harbor Freights, but professional grade tools that he can be proud to show the guys at work. And even if he already has one, that’s OK, it’s nice to have tools for home too!

Cats Paw magnetic flashlights are an inexpensive gift that is sure to please. With it’s telescoping reach, a magnetic end that can pick up 5 pounds and flashlight to help find those dropped nuts and bolts, or tools. Any auto technician can put this to work, with its multiple uses it’s a nice item to have nearby.

This low profile racing jack is lightweight aluminum, low profile and has lifting power of 4,000 pounds! Made by OTC, this is not a cheap jack from Harbor Freights, this is the real deal.

A video inspection scope has many uses when it comes to car inspection and this is not a cheap, made in China scope. This is a Visual Optics automatic focus, 2.5″ color screen professional grade video scope, Made in the USA!

Air tools are always a popular gift idea and the Ingersoll Rand Thunder Gun is sure to please. It’s a good looking impact that’s packed with power. Your man will hardly be able to wait to hear it roar!

Ratcheting Gear Wrenches are a huge time saver and KD tools has the coolest ones around. The X-Beam GearWrench has an ergonomically pleasing shape that allows easy force to be applied. Sears has copied this design with their regular wrenches, but don’t be fooled, this is the one to get!

What real man doesn’t love cordless power? Makita is the name to have in flashlights and drills for automotive use. This package deal comes with a regular flashlight, a fluorescent light, a drill and an impact driver. He’ll think of you when he uses any of these cool tools!

Infrared thermometers are neat gadgets to have around. An interesting bit of trivia is that ghost hunters use them to find cold spots, where ghosts are believed to be. Even if your guy doesn’t believe in the supernatural, he’ll still get plenty of use out of an infrared thermometer working on cars!

Automotive Tool Gift Ideas♦

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P0442 P0455 P0457 EVAP Leak Ford Mustang – Smoke Machine

automotivetools — Sun, 02 Nov 2008 14:07:35 +0000

2004 Ford Mustang EVAP Codes pulled with Genisys Scan Tool

Evaporative leak codes can be caused by broken fuel vapor lines, gas tank seals leaking, EVAP canister cracked, etc. EVAP codes can be some of the most difficult fault codes to diagnose. After pulling codes and checking the obvious by doing a quick visual inspection, to verify it’s not just a loose gas cap you’re dealing with. Bring out the smoke machine, it’s a great auto specialty tool that is really a necessity in any automotive repair shop today. In addition to checking for EVAP leaks, it can also be used to check vacuum leaks for lean codes and exhaust leaks that aren’t quite so easy to pinpoint.

EVAP Smoke testing helps pinpoint leaks quickly

The leak in the Evaporative system on this Mustang was right at the filler neck, where it goes into the tank. Smoke came pouring out immediately. The customer complained of gas smell also, so it made sense that it would most likely be caused by a rather large leak.

Filler neck seal at tank was cracked.

The filler neck seal at the tank pictured above had a huge crack, you can see the gaping hole. To replace it was easy. Remove the 8mm screw for the filler neck and loosen the 13mm bolts for the gas tank straps. The tank can then be lowered enough to pull the filler neck out. Remove the old seal and install the new one, paying attention to the placement of slot in the new seal. A little silicone spray for lubrication and the filler neck slipped back into place. If your shop doesn’t have a smoke machine it should, save time and make more money, here is a tech article with more info.